‘Cloud Surfing’: A Ski Bum in Japan

‘Cloud Surfing’: A Ski Bum in Japan

Updated August 2, 2023

I arrived in Niseko-Cho, Hokkaido, Japan, and was eager to indulge in what is commonly referred to as the “World’s Greatest Powder Snow”. Powder snow is the epitome of quality in the ski world. Skiing on top of it creates a floating sensation unrivaled by any other activities. If cloud surfing were possible, it may come close. This type of snow is why people travel worldwide to the little town of Niseko. The geographic fortune of Niseko allows for the perfect combination of cold, dry air off the Siberian peninsula and moisture from the Sea of Japan to create enough snow that will bury an unattended car in a matter of hours.

Blend of Culture and Skiing

The blend of such a deep-rooted culture like Japan and some of the world’s best skiing is what intrigued me to set foot into this truly amazing country. Based at the Black Diamond Lodge in Niseko Village (one of the four main resorts on Niseko Annupuri), I found it easy and efficient to fulfill all my daily skiing desires. Clayton Kernaghan, owner of the Black Diamond Lodge, made it extremely easy to travel to many of the other local resorts. While the town and resort of Hirafu are by far the most popular visited areas in the region, there are many hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The Black Diamond Lodge has a tour-providing business with which they can offer assistance to those seeking to get away from the more “Westernized” resorts.

Relax in an Onsen

Whether it is internationally recommended hotel or a local backpacker hostel, the Niseko United resort area will have the accommodation you desire. Fortunately, many of the local hotels have an onsen within walking distance. An onsen is a natural hot spring upgraded into a utopia of relaxation. At nighttime, the rolling steam and snow flurries enhance the already peaceful sensation of the bath. If there was one specific experience I could recommend, It would be to tire yourself out as much as possible with a long ski day followed by an invigorating soak in a natural onsen.

Mt. Yotei

A close second would be hiking the tallest peak in the area, Mt. Yotei (1,890m). Mt. Yotei is a perfectly symmetrical volcano that hasn’t erupted since 1050 BC, so it is dormant. A spectacular 360-degree view of the greater Niseko area is the reward for the four or five hour expedition. Upon reaching the top you can decide to ski in the snow filled crater or take one of the many untracked gully runs down your direction of choice. Come prepared, as Mt. Yotei can often be subject to variable and inclement.

Sapporo

Sapporo, the fifth-largest city in Japan, acts as a gateway to Hokkaido and is easily reached via train or bus from the Niseko area. Usually before departure from Hokkaido, visitors will make it a point to partake in the endless nightlife around the city’s Susukino central area. The city holds an annual snow festival during February in which massive sculptures of ice are temporarily erected by warmly welcomed international artists. The neighboring port city of Otaru is within a short train ride and is the primary location to get a taste of Japan’s reasonably priced fresh-off-the-boat sushi. Otaru also features a canal walk lined with traditional Japanese gifts and illusive fish markets.

In three months, I still have not covered everything I would have liked to do. Perhaps this is the reason I have taken a personal oath to come back for another visit. Niseko, and Hokkaido in general, have been a truly remarkable adventure and are approachable throughout every season with plenty of activities for any outdoor orientated people.