Why You Shouldn’t Pass Up Laos

When I began my recent trip to Laos, I had very few expectations about the country because I knew quite little about it. I guessed it would be similar to Thailand, which I visited three years ago, but even less developed and even more rural. As it turns out, my expectations were met somewhat, and yet Laos had even more to offer than I’d hoped.

My friends and I arrived in Laos via an overnight train from Bangkok. Actually, the train arrived in Nong Khai near the Lao/Thai border, and we had to make our way to the crossing via tuk tuk. Upon arrival at the border, it was easy to purchase a single-entry tourist visa for $35. It was then a 30-minute taxi ride to Vientiane, the Lao capital city. In that brief time period, we saw cattle in the street, motorbikes galore, ramshackle huts and stately colonial-style homes.

From Vientiane, we took a minivan (for $25 US each) to Luang Prabang, a town in northern Laos that has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although the distance was only about 260 miles, the journey took about 10 hours. We traveled over bumpy and dilapidated roads, and then the “highway” climbed and descended a mountain, clinging to the edge and winding all the way. (On the way back to Vientiane, we opted for a “VIP” bus (for $17.50), which was a bit less jerky and had an on-board toilet).

In spite of the lengthy trek to reach Luang Prabang, I would recommend it to anyone visiting Laos. The town center is easy to navigate and quite tourist friendly. The main streets are filled with restaurants with English menus, offering both Lao and Western dishes. Street vendors sell crepes, delicious fruit shakes and mini cakes, as well as the popular Lao coffee and tea.

One of the main tourist attractions in Luang Prabang is Wat Xieng Thong, though there are quite a few temples, because it is in very good condition. Another popular activity is the daily early morning procession of Buddhist monks down the night market street, where they receive gifts of sticky rice and other foods from faithful Laoans and friendly tourists. My friends and I visited Tat Kuang Si, a park about an hour away by tuk tuk, which has lovely waterfalls, swimming areas and an Asiatic black bear rescue center. We also took a boat trip along the beautiful Mekong River to the Pak Ou caves, which house many Buddhist icons.

One of my favorite activities in Luang Prabang was a night spent at Tamnak Lao Restaurant’s evening cooking school. For $25, attendees can watch the teachers prepare four dishes and then choose three to make themselves. My friend and I cooked tom chaeow pha, a fish soup with eggplant paste; panaeng gai, chicken and pork in coconut sauce with chili paste; and luak puk, mixed vegetable crudités with spicy tomato dip. The food was amazing, and we each got cookbooks to take home!

I can see why Laos is probably not the most popular destination for many tourists in Southeast Asia. It’s not home to many world-famous sights and photo opportunities, nor is it the easiest to navigate at times. But, I would recommend it to any traveler with a bit of an adventurous spirit. By enduring rough roads and poor public toilets, you will experience a country full of friendly people, delicious food and lovely, well-preserved, wide open spaces.